Tzimmes & a Gahtzah Tzimmes

Tzimmes is Jewish comfort food at its most fundamental: brisket simmered until nearly tender, then finished with pounds of sliced carrots and brown sugar until everything melds into a sweet, savory, stick-to-your-ribs stew. The name itself has become Yiddish slang for “a big fuss," and this recipe earns that title.

The thickening technique here is traditional Eastern European: an einbren. Flour gets browned dry in a small skillet, stirring constantly to prevent burning, until it turns light golden. Then schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) gets worked in, followed by carrot stock to form a smooth paste. Stirred into the stew, it thickens the braising liquid into a glossy, concentrated sauce.

Browning the flour first is what separates an einbren from a plain roux. The toasted flour adds a nutty depth and avoids the raw, pasty taste that uncooked flour leaves behind. Combined with schmaltz, it creates a richness that butter or oil can’t replicate in a kosher kitchen.

Kitchen Tips

• Simmer the brisket for a full 1 ½ hours before adding the carrots. Tough brisket needs time to break down
• Stir the flour constantly while browning. It goes from golden to burnt in seconds
• The schmaltz is traditional and adds authentic flavor, but vegetable shortening works as a substitute
• Cook the carrots until very tender, not just done. Soft carrots are part of the character of tzimmes

Variations

• Add dried prunes or sweet potatoes with the carrots for a more elaborate holiday tzimmes
• Use honey instead of brown sugar for a different sweetness
• Add a cinnamon stick to the simmering broth for a warmly spiced version