Szechwan Noodles with Green Onions

A Szechuan-style cold noodle dish that defies the rule about pasta going downhill once it cools. These noodles actually taste better after a few hours in the fridge, when the sesame oil, soy sauce, black vinegar, sugar, and chili oil have had time to settle into every strand.

The technique is worth the detail. Boil the noodles in unsalted water (the sauce brings the salt), keep them al dente (two minutes is usually enough for fresh Chinese noodles), then shock them in cold running water to stop the cooking and rinse off excess starch. Drain thoroughly for 15 to 30 minutes so the sauce doesn’t dilute.

The dressing gets mixed separately and poured over the cold noodles, then hands work it through each strand the way a cook would dress a salad. Hands do a better job than tongs here because you can feel when the sauce has coated evenly. Fold in sliced scallions, garnish with sesame seeds, cilantro, and a scatter of diced barbecued pork if you have it. Let the whole bowl rest an hour or more before serving.

Chef Tips

• Use Chinese wheat noodles or lo mein. Regular spaghetti works in a pinch but lacks the toothy chew that holds sauce.
• Black Chinese vinegar gives the most authentic tang. Rice vinegar works but leans sharper and thinner.
• Start with a modest amount of chili oil and add to taste. It builds heat as the noodles sit.
• Rinse noodles really well in cold water. Starchy surface water turns the sauce gluey as it chills.

Variations

• Add shredded cooked chicken, cold poached shrimp, or sliced tofu for a fuller lunch.
• Toss in julienned cucumber and shredded carrot for crunch.
• Swap sesame oil for Sichuan chili oil with crunchy bits for a hotter, more textured sauce.