Stir-Fried Zucchini

When the summer garden hands you more zucchini than you know what to do with, this is the quickest way to put it on a plate. Hot oil, a brief stir-fry, and a splash of water to steam everything tender-crisp. The pinch of sugar isn’t there to make this sweet. It balances the slight bitterness of the zucchini skin and brings out the squash’s natural sugars without anyone noticing where the brightness came from.

The quarter-inch cut is important. Thicker pieces stay raw in the center while the edges burn. Thinner pieces collapse into mush. Quarter-inch coins give you the right ratio of charred-edge surface area to tender-crisp interior in the 7 to 8 minutes the recipe calls for. A heavy pot with high heat is what makes this work. Stainless or cast iron beats nonstick for getting the sear you want.

Kitchen Tips

• Pat the zucchini dry with paper towels before adding to the pan. Wet zucchini steams instead of browning and you lose the caramelized edges.
• Heat the oil until it shimmers, almost smoking. A hot pan is what gives you the stir-fry color. Cool oil just makes soggy zucchini.
• Don’t crowd the pan. Use a 5-quart Dutch oven or split into two batches. Crowded zucchini steams and turns out limp.
• Add the salt at the end if your zucchini is small and tender. Salting early pulls out water and dilutes the stir-fry.

Variations

• Try the cabbage variation included in the recipe by browning a sliced garlic clove first, discarding it, then stir-frying 6 cups of sliced cabbage.
• Stir in a tablespoon of soy sauce and toasted sesame seeds at the end for an Asian-leaning side.
• Add halved cherry tomatoes in the last minute for color and a burst of acidity.