Sauteed Crookneck Squash

This is a beloved Southern summer side that shows off yellow crookneck squash at its tender, butter-soft best. The unexpected hit of finely chopped water chestnuts running through the dish is the part that keeps it interesting: little nuggets of clean crunch against the silky cooked squash.

A combination of butter and olive oil keeps the fat from burning while building serious flavor. Butter alone scorches at the temperature you need to brown the water chestnuts. The oil raises the smoke point and gives the dish its rich aroma.

Cook the water chestnuts until they turn light golden before the squash hits the pan. That browning develops a faintly nutty flavor that’s lost if they go in raw or are added later.

Slice the squash thinly. The thinner the slices, the faster they soften into that creamy, melt-against-the-fork texture that defines a great squash saute. Thick slices stay watery and underdone in the middle.

Don’t lift the lid much during the covered simmer. The trapped steam cooks the squash through without needing extra liquid that would water everything down.

Kitchen Tips

• Choose small, firm crookneck squash with shiny yellow skin. Big squash with bumpy skin are full of seeds and water.
• Salt brings water out of the squash as it cooks, which is desirable, do not drain it off, that liquid concentrates into the flavor.
• Use canned water chestnuts drained and patted dry. Wet ones won’t brown properly.
• For deeper flavor, finish with a few cracks of black pepper and a squeeze of lemon right before serving.

Variations

• Stir in 2 tablespoons of toasted pine nuts along with the water chestnuts for double the crunch.
• Add a clove of minced garlic with the onion for an extra savory layer.
• Sprinkle with grated parmesan after cooking for a slightly Italian spin on a Southern classic.