Capon of the North

This is old-world Irish cooking with its Sunday best on.

A whole capon gets cut up, dredged in seasoned flour, browned in butter with diced bacon and small onions, then flamed with a generous pour of Irish whiskey that fills the kitchen with the most intoxicating aroma.

Red wine, garlic, and allspice go in next, and the bird simmers gently for an hour until the meat is fall-apart tender.

The sauce is where things get truly grand: the braising liquid gets reduced by half, then thickened off the heat with beaten egg yolks and cream into something velvety and rich.

Garnished with pearl onions and mushrooms cooked separately in lemon water, this is a centerpiece dish built for a gathering.

Chef Tips

• Flame carefully. Tilt the pan slightly toward the burner or use a long match. The whiskey will ignite with a dramatic whoosh, so keep your face back and your sleeves rolled.
• Don’t boil after adding the egg yolks. The sauce will curdle. Stir gently over low heat just until it thickens to a coating consistency.
• Cook the pearl onions and mushrooms separately in water with lemon juice. This keeps them tender and bright instead of muddied by the braising liquid.
• A capon is larger and more flavorful than a regular chicken. If you can’t find one, a large roasting chicken works, but reduce the cooking time slightly.