Poor Man's Shrimp

This is the kind of frugal cooking trick that disappeared from most recipe books but deserves a comeback. Cubed salmon poached briefly in heavily salted water firms up dramatically, taking on a texture and even a faint sweetness reminiscent of cooked shrimp. The high salt content draws moisture out of the fish and tightens its proteins, which is what gives this recipe its identity.

The float-an-egg salt test is the old-school way to gauge brine concentration. If a raw egg floats with the shell on, you’ve hit roughly the same salinity as seawater (or even higher with the extra cup), which is what you need for the transformation to work.

Two pounds of salmon feeds a good crowd as an appetizer, served chilled with cocktail sauce, drawn butter, or a simple aioli. It’s a budget-friendly stand-in when shrimp prices feel ridiculous.

Pro Tips

• Use skinless, boneless salmon for the cleanest, most shrimp-like result.
• Don’t overcook, the second boil should be brief, just until the cubes turn opaque and firm. Overcooked salmon goes flaky and the trick fails.
• Drain immediately into ice water to stop the cooking and firm up the texture further.
• Serve cold with cocktail sauce, melted butter with lemon, or a tangy remoulade.

Variations

• Sub Atlantic salmon for sockeye for a richer, fattier version, the higher fat content gives a more luxurious texture.
• Add a bay leaf and a few peppercorns to the brine for subtle background flavor.
• Cube smaller and pile onto crackers with dill-cream cheese for an easy hors d’oeuvre.