Pesce Spada in Salmoriglio (Swordfish in Olive Oil Sauce)

Salmoriglio is Sicily’s answer to the question of what to put on grilled fish. The name comes from sale (salt) plus origano (oregano), and the sauce is essentially a warm emulsion of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, and parsley whisked with a splash of boiling water to loosen it and marry the flavors.

Thick swordfish steaks get a quick bath in seasoned olive oil, then go straight to a hot grill. Timing is the only skill involved: pull them off while the center is still barely opaque. Swordfish tightens fast and dries out if you let it go a minute too long.

The sauce goes over the fish at the table, not on the grill. This preserves the vivid, almost raw-tasting herbs. A crust of grilled char under a spoonful of lemony green oil; it’s one of those dishes that tastes like it costs more than it does.

Chef Tips

• Choose steaks at least ¾ inch thick; anything thinner cooks through before the outside browns.
• Whisk the boiling water into the sauce last. It emulsifies and lifts the oil.
• Test doneness by pressing the center; it should feel firm but still have some give.
• Serve with grilled vegetables or a simple tomato salad, nothing that competes with the sauce.

Variations

• Try it with tuna steaks or mahi-mahi; the sauce works on any firm, meaty fish.
• Add a pinch of red pepper flakes to the sauce for heat.
• Char a whole lemon half on the grill and squeeze it over the fish for deeper citrus.