Peas Braised in Tomato (Piselli Alla Napoletana)

Piselli alla Napoletana is southern Italian cooking at its purest. Six ingredients, one pot, and peas that taste like they belong in a Naples trattoria. Green peas braise gently in diluted tomato paste with olive oil and softened onion until tender and coated in a concentrated, savory tomato glaze.

The technique here is a study in simplicity done well. The onion wilts in olive oil for just two minutes, then the peas and diluted tomato paste join the party. Fifteen minutes of covered, low-heat braising turns frozen peas into something silky and deeply flavored. The final step is key: cranking the heat to high and boiling vigorously for 3-5 minutes until almost all the liquid evaporates. This concentrates the tomato flavor into a thick, glossy coating rather than leaving watery peas sitting in thin sauce.

Use a nonreactive pan (stainless steel or enameled). Tomato paste plus heat in a plain aluminum or cast-iron pot can give the peas a metallic taste.

Chef Tips

• Dissolve the tomato paste in water before adding. Dropping paste directly into the pan creates clumps that won’t distribute evenly.
• Don’t skip the final high-heat reduction. It transforms the dish from peas in tomato broth to peas glazed in concentrated tomato.
• Frozen peas work perfectly here. Fresh spring peas are wonderful too, but may need a few extra minutes of braising.
• Serve immediately. The peas lose their bright green color and firm texture if they sit.

Variations

• Add a pinch of red pepper flakes with the onion for a spicy Calabrese-style version.
• Toss the finished peas with short pasta like orecchiette and a grating of Pecorino Romano for a quick primo.
• Stir in a handful of diced prosciutto with the onion for a meatier, saltier side.