Mushroom Bolognese

This vegetarian Bolognese swaps the meat for finely chopped mushrooms and the result is surprisingly convincing. Dried shiitakes bring concentrated umami, while button mushrooms add bulk and a meaty texture once they’re processed and cooked down.

The key technique is patience during the saute. Cook the chopped mushrooms until ALL the liquid evaporates and they start to brown, a full 10 to 15 minutes. This step is what transforms watery mushrooms into something rich and savory that actually mimics ground meat in the sauce.

Soaking the dried shiitakes first rehydrates them and makes them blend evenly with the button mushrooms in the food processor. Don’t toss that soaking liquid either. Save it and add a splash to the sauce if it reduces too much.

Chef Tips

• Process the mushrooms to a fine chop, not a paste. You want texture that resembles ground meat, not mushroom puree.
• Break the canned tomatoes by hand rather than chopping. Hand-crushed tomatoes give a chunkier, more rustic sauce.
• Let the sauce reduce until thick but still saucy. It tightens up once it hits the hot pasta.
• A pinch of sugar balances the acidity of the tomatoes. Don’t skip it.

Variations

• Add a splash of red wine with the tomatoes for deeper flavor.
• Toss in a handful of finely diced carrots and celery with the shallots for a more traditional soffritto base.
• Use this sauce with pappardelle or rigatoni for the best sauce-to-pasta ratio.