Lemon Pressed Cabbage

This is the kind of side dish that converts cabbage skeptics. Pressing salted savoy cabbage under weight for an hour wilts the leaves just enough to lose their squeak while concentrating their grassy sweetness. Tossed with chewy cloud ear mushrooms and thin quartered slices of lemon (rind and all), the result lands somewhere between a Japanese tsukemono pickle and a bright winter slaw.

Cloud ears are the surprise. The slippery-crunch ribbons stay firm under the weight when the cabbage has gone soft, giving the dish two distinct textures in every bite. The whole lemon slices, pith and all, offer little bursts of bitter brightness that keep the salt in check.

A proper pickle press makes the prep effortless, but a colander set over a bowl with a heavy plate on top works almost as well. The drained liquid is salty and sharp, useful stirred into a cucumber salad dressing or noodle broth.

Kitchen Tips

• Soak dried cloud ear mushrooms in warm water for 20 minutes to rehydrate before chopping. Discard any tough nubs.
• Slice the lemon paper-thin so the rind softens enough to eat. A mandoline does this best.
• Use kosher or sea salt, not table salt. Iodized salt can leave a metallic edge in quick pickles.
• Drain well before serving. Lingering liquid dilutes the flavor and makes the cabbage limp instead of crisp.

Variations

• Add a thin-sliced fresh chile or a sprinkle of red pepper flakes for heat.
• Stir in a teaspoon of toasted sesame oil and sesame seeds before serving for nuttiness.
• Swap savoy for napa cabbage and add julienned carrot for color.