Le Papet Vaudois

Le Papet Vaudois is a classic dish from the canton of Vaud in Switzerland, and it’s about as comforting as food gets. Leeks and potatoes braised together in white wine and vegetable broth until tender, seasoned with nutmeg, and finished with a splash of evaporated milk. It’s traditionally served as a bed for sausage, with a hunk of crusty bread on the side.

Nearly two pounds of leeks make this a leek dish with potatoes, not the other way around. The leeks soften into silky, sweet ribbons during the covered braise, melting into the potatoes and creating a thick, stew-like consistency that’s halfway between a soup and a side dish.

White wine in the braising liquid adds a gentle acidity that brightens the earthy leeks and keeps the whole thing from being too starchy. The vegetable broth provides savory depth without competing with the leek’s delicate flavor.

Nutmeg is the signature seasoning here. Just a grating adds a warm, slightly sweet note that’s classic in Swiss and French potato dishes. It amplifies the natural sweetness of the leeks without being identifiable as a distinct spice.

The evaporated milk stirred in at the end adds creaminess with less liquid than regular cream, keeping the consistency thick.

Kitchen Tips

• Cut leeks into 1-inch pieces and wash thoroughly in cold water. Sand hides between the layers and gritty papet is nobody’s favorite
• Dice the potatoes small so they cook in the same time as the leeks. Large chunks will still be firm when the leeks are already soft
• Grate the nutmeg fresh if possible. Pre-ground nutmeg loses its aromatic punch quickly
• The dish should be thick enough to support a sausage on top without it sinking in

Variations

• Top with a smoked pork sausage (saucisse aux choux) for the most traditional Swiss pairing
• Use heavy cream instead of evaporated milk for a richer, more indulgent version
• Add a handful of grated Gruyere cheese stirred in at the end for a Swiss cheese twist