Kathi Roll of Nizam

Kathi rolls are one of India’s great street foods, born in the Nizam restaurant in Kolkata in the 1930s and now wrapped on every street corner from Mumbai to Mississauga. The original was meat skewered on metal rods (the “kathi” of the name) and rolled into a flatbread for office workers who didn’t want greasy fingers. This version uses a humble but irresistible spiced potato filling, the most common vegetarian variation.

The flatbread is the soul of the dish. The dough rests after kneading for a full 20 minutes, which lets the gluten relax so the discs roll out thin and tender without snapping back. The directions specifically warn not to let the rotis crisp on the griddle. Soft and pliable is the goal, because crisp bread cracks when you roll it.

The potato filling is studded with chopped raw onion, green chilies, and cilantro, all uncooked. The contrast between the warm starchy potato and the bright crunchy aromatics is what makes the bite work.

Don’t skip the wax paper wrap. The half-wrap technique is how kathi rolls are eaten on the street: the paper holds the roll together, keeps fingers clean, and gets peeled down as you eat.

Serve with cool mint chutney for dipping.

Chef Tips

• Boil the potatoes in their skins for fluffier mash. The skin slips off easily after they’re cooked and the flesh stays drier.
• Squeeze the chopped onion in a clean towel before mixing with the potatoes. Excess water makes the filling soggy.
• Roll the dough discs as thin as you can without tearing. Thinner rotis make for tighter, more flexible rolls.
• Cocktail sticks (toothpicks) holding each roll are removable, but warn diners they’re there.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of garam masala or chaat masala to the potato mix for warmer spice.
• Swap potato for spiced paneer, grilled chicken, or kebab meat for a meatier roll.
• Brush the cooked roti with butter and a sprinkle of chaat masala before stuffing for extra flavor.