Kadin Gobegi (Ladies' Navels)
Submitted by RYBRY
Kadin Gobegi, a traditional Turkish fried choux pastry soaked in lemon syrup and garnished with cream and pistachios. Crispy puffed dough rounds with a syrup-drenched center.
YIELD
20 servingsPREP
30 minCOOK
40 minREADY
70 minKadin Gobegi (Ladies’ Navels) is one of Turkey’s most beloved traditional desserts. Walnut-sized balls of choux pastry get shaped with a dimple in the center (the “navel"), fried until golden and puffed, then soaked in a sweet lemon syrup. Served with a dollop of whipped cream or kaymak (clotted cream) and a scatter of chopped pistachios, they’re an irresistible combination of crispy, syrupy, and creamy.
The choux pastry is the same technique used in French profiteroles and eclairs: butter and water brought to a boil, flour dumped in all at once and stirred until the dough pulls away from the pan, then eggs beaten in gradually. A touch of almond oil gives the Turkish version its distinctive fragrance.
The frying technique is what makes or breaks this dessert. Starting in just-warm oil and gradually increasing the heat allows the pastry to puff up slowly and cook through evenly before the outside browns. Rushing with hot oil from the start produces pastry that’s dark outside and raw inside.
Chef Tips
- Oil your hands generously while shaping. This dough is extremely sticky. Re-oil between every few pieces.
- Start frying in barely warm oil. The gradual temperature increase is critical for even puffing. Hot oil from the start won’t work.
- Fry for a full 15 minutes per batch. These need the time. Turn frequently during the second half for even browning.
- Soak in syrup for exactly 5 minutes. Too short and they’re dry inside. Too long and they get soggy and fall apart.
Variations
- Dilber Dudagi (Lips of the Beauty): Flatten the balls wider and fold in half to create lip-shaped pastries. Same frying and syrup method.
- Rose water syrup: Add a teaspoon of rose water to the cooled syrup for a more floral, traditionally Turkish flavor.
- Kaymak is traditional and worth seeking out at Middle Eastern grocery stores for the most authentic experience.
Ingredients
Directions
In a heavy pan dissolve sugar in water over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Bring to the boil, add lemon juice and boil rapidly, without stirring, for 15 minutes.
Leave syrup in pan to cool.
Sift flour and salt onto a square of stiff paper.
In another heavy pan heat water and butter until boiling.
Pour in flour all at once, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or balloon whisk.
Keep stirring until mixture leaves sides of pan, then cook on low heat, stirring occasionally, for further 5 minutes.
Remove roux from heat and turn into a bowl.
Cool for 2 minutes then gradually beat in eggs.
Add almond oil and beat until smooth and satiny.
A balloon whisk will break up lumps, a wooden spoon is better for beating to a smooth finish, so utilize the two for the process.
Oil hands and take pieces of dough the size of a walnut.
Roll into smooth balls and place on an oiled tray.
Flatten into rounds about 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter and press oiled forefinger into centre of each to make a hole.
Keep hands oiled during shaping so that dough will not stick.
Place enough oil in a large electric frypan to come to a depth of 1 cm (½ inch).
Heat until just warm and place half of the prepared gobegi into oil.
Increase heat to 200C (400F) as soon as they are added.
When gobegi rise to the surface and are puffed, turn them over.
Fry them for 15 minutes in all, timed from when the gobegi are first placed into pan.
Turn frequently during last half of cooking time so that they brown evenly.
When cooked, remove from oil with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on paper towels.
Put into syrup, turn them and leave for 5 minutes before removing to a plate.
Turn off frypan and allow oil to cool before adding second lot.
To serve, arrange gobegi on a flat platter and place a dollop of whipped cream or kaymak in the center.
Sprinkle with pistachio nuts.
NOTE: If you have no electric frypan, use a large frying pan set on a thermostatically controlled hot plate or burner.
Otherwise use an ordinary burner, start at low and increase heat to midway between medium and high settings.
Variation: Dilber Dudagi (Lips of the Beauty) Follow above directions, but flatten the balls of dough in your hand to a 6 cm (2½ inch) round and fold dough over so that pastry resembles lips on curved edge.
Place on an oiled tray until all are shaped.
Fry and finish as for Kadin Gobegi.
Serve plain or with whipped cream or kaymak.
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