Jerusalem Artichoke with Goat Cheese

Jerusalem artichokes, or sunchokes, have a sweet nutty profile somewhere between artichoke heart and water chestnut. Roasted or simmered, they take on a creamy interior while keeping a bit of bite. This gratin treatment uses both qualities: parboiled tender first, then baked under a goat cheese-spiked bechamel.

The sauce is a classic bechamel with a twist. Once it’s thickened, a whole log of goat cheese melts in, tangy and rich, before an egg yolk goes in to enrich and lightly set. A pinch of nutmeg is the right amount; more pushes it from French into pumpkin pie.

Breadcrumbs do double duty here. A layer on the bottom of the pan catches the buttery juices and keeps the gratin from sticking; a sprinkle on top crisps into the lid you crack through with a spoon. Fifteen minutes at 400°F (200°C) is enough to brown the top and warm everything through.

Pro Tips

• Peel the sunchokes if the skins are knobby; thin-skinned ones can be scrubbed and left unpeeled
• Slip peeled chokes into acidulated water (water with lemon juice) to prevent browning while you work
• Use a chevre log, not goat feta; the soft fresh cheese melts cleanly while feta seizes
• A pinch of finely chopped chives or thyme on top adds a fresh green note

Variations

• Sub blue cheese for the goat cheese for a sharper, bolder gratin
• Top with grated gruyere before the breadcrumbs for a richer finish
• Add a handful of sauteed wild mushrooms between the sunchoke and sauce layers for earthiness