Horseradish Applesauce

This is the kind of two-ingredient recipe that makes you wonder why anyone bothers buying anything in a jar. Stir prepared horseradish into applesauce and you have a centuries-old central European condiment that’s been served at Sunday roast tables from Poland to Pennsylvania Dutch country.

The pairing works because the sweet, soft apple is the perfect cushion for the sharp, sinus-clearing heat of horseradish. Apple alone is too soft to stand up to roast pork or smoked ham. Horseradish alone is too sharp to eat with anything but a steak. Combined, the two go from background players to the highlight of the plate.

Use a chunky, slightly tart applesauce if you can. Smooth, sugary applesauce gets lost under the horseradish, while a homemade or unsweetened style with apple texture stands up better. Adjust the horseradish to taste. Four tablespoons makes a noticeably hot sauce. Cut it back to two if you prefer something gentler.

Serve alongside roasted ham, baked smoked sausage, schnitzel, or thick slices of cold roast pork.

Variations

• Stir in 1 tablespoon of sour cream or creme fraiche for a richer, German-style sauce.
• Add a teaspoon of grainy mustard for a sharper kick.
• Use freshly grated horseradish root in place of jarred for full pungency.