Holdermus

Holdermus is old German farmhouse cooking at its simplest: fresh elderberries cooked down with a splash of water, thickened with a milk-and-flour slurry or a roux, and sweetened with honey. The result is a thick, jammy purple mush that’s somewhere between a compote and a porridge.

The recipe gives you two paths. A roux (butter and flour cooked together) produces a richer, silkier mush. The milk-and-flour mixture is lighter and gets finished with a drizzle of hot clarified butter on top that pools and sizzles into the surface.

Pan-toasted bread cubes scattered over the top add crunch and soak up the warm berry juices. Traditionally this comes to the table in the same copper skillet it cooked in.

Chef Tips

• Strip every elderberry from the stems carefully. The stems are mildly toxic and taste bitter.
• Cook the berries with just enough water to prevent sticking. Too much water thins out the mush and you lose that concentrated berry intensity.
• Stir constantly once you add the thickener. Elderberry mush scorches quickly on the bottom.
• Use raw honey and add it after the mixture comes off the boil to preserve its flavor.

Variations

• Add a pinch of cinnamon or a few whole cloves to the berries while cooking for a spiced autumn version.
• Serve over vanilla ice cream instead of eating it as a standalone dish.
• Swap honey for maple syrup for a different sweetness profile.