Gruiben (Cracklings)

This is old-world German thrift at its most satisfying: rendering fatty pork down into two treasures at once, crisp golden cracklings and a pot of clean, homemade lard.

The method is patient but simple. Cubed bacon or fatback goes into a tall pot, never more than half full, since the rendering throws up a lot of foam. You heat it slowly so it doesn’t scorch, and once a little fat pools in the bottom, a splash of milk or water helps the process along and encourages browning.

As the fat melts away, the bits of meat and skin left behind crisp into golden, savory cracklings. You strain off the liquid lard into a crock to use for cooking, and keep the cracklings.

Warm from the pot, the cracklings are an irresistible snack, though they’re also wonderful sprinkled over potatoes, greens, or fresh bread.

Pro Tips

• Use a tall pot filled no more than halfway, as the recipe warns, so the foaming fat doesn’t boil over.
• Render low and slow; high heat scorches the bottom before the fat melts out.
• Strain and save the rendered lard; it’s prized for frying, pastry, and roasting potatoes.

Variations

• Salt the warm cracklings, or toss them with a little paprika, for snacking.
• Stir cracklings into cornbread, biscuits, or mashed potatoes.
• Use the same method on chicken or duck fat and skin for poultry cracklings.