Fun Gwau

Fun gwau (also spelled fun guo) are Cantonese dim sum dumplings with a chewy, translucent wrapper that shows hints of the filling underneath like colored glass. The filling here is a classic Chinese combination: ground pork for richness, shrimp for sweetness and bounce, rehydrated shiitake mushrooms for earthy depth, plus crunchy bamboo shoots and water chestnuts for texture contrast.

The wrapper warning in the directions matters. Roll these thin. Thick wrappers turn gummy and rubbery when steamed, which ruins the whole point of the delicate, almost see-through finish.

The salt-rinse on the shrimp is a Cantonese trick that firms them up and keeps them snappy after cooking. Don’t skip it. Limp, mealy shrimp is the hallmark of lazy dim sum.

Stir-frying the filling before stuffing means the flavors are already built and balanced. All the wrapped dumpling needs is a 6 to 8 minute steam.

Kitchen Tips

• Rehydrate the dried mushrooms in warm (not hot) water to keep their earthy flavor intact. Save the soaking liquid for soup stock.
• Cool the filling completely before wrapping. Warm filling melts the wrapper and makes pleating impossible.
• Keep the wrappers covered with a damp towel while you work. They dry out in minutes and crack.
• Steam on a greased cabbage leaf or parchment-lined bamboo steamer. The starchy wrappers stick to bare metal.

Variations

• Add minced Chinese chives or garlic chives to the filling for extra savoriness.
• Swap pork for finely minced chicken thigh for a lighter version.
• Serve with Chinese black vinegar and julienned fresh ginger, the classic dim sum dipping combo.