Duck Curry - Kaen of Duck

This Thai duck curry is built entirely from scratch, starting with a handmade curry paste pounded in a mortar. Dried chilies, peppercorns, coriander seeds, caraway, shrimp paste, cilantro root, lemongrass, lime peel, shallots, garlic, and ginger all get ground together into a fragrant, fiery paste that forms the backbone of the dish.

The coconut milk gets split into two portions, which is a classic Thai technique. Half simmers for 15 minutes until it thickens and the fat starts to separate, creating a rich base for browning the duck. The other half is reserved and added later to loosen the sauce and balance the intensity of the paste. This two-stage coconut milk method gives you a sauce that’s both thick and creamy.

The recipe wisely suggests adding only half the curry paste at first, tasting, and adjusting. Homemade pastes vary wildly in heat depending on your chilies, so building up gradually keeps you from blowing past the point of no return. Fish sauce and fresh basil go in at the end, finishing the curry with salty depth and a burst of herbal fragrance.

Chef Tips

• Pound the spices and aromatics in stages: dry spices first, then wet ingredients. Adding everything at once makes the paste uneven.
• Simmer the first portion of coconut milk until you see the oil start to separate on the surface. That’s the sign it’s ready for the duck.
• Soak the dried chilies in warm water for at least 20 minutes before pounding. They need to be soft enough to break down into a smooth paste.
• Leftover curry paste stores well in a covered jar in the fridge for several days. Use it for stir-fries or another curry.

Variations

• Use chicken thighs instead of duck for a lighter, more affordable version.
• Add Thai eggplant or bamboo shoots during the last 15 minutes of simmering for vegetables.
• Stir in a tablespoon of palm sugar to balance the heat if your chilies run especially hot.