Cherry Divinity

Cherry divinity is one of those mid-century candies that lived in tin canisters and showed up at every church bake sale and Christmas cookie tray in the South and Midwest. The Jello is the modernizing twist that turns pure-white classic divinity into a soft pink confection with a bright cherry note that cuts through what is otherwise an extremely sugary candy.

The technique is pure candy chemistry. Sugar, corn syrup, and water boil to the hard-ball stage (around 250°F / 121°C on a candy thermometer). While that climbs, egg whites get beaten with the dry cherry gelatin to soft peaks. Then the screaming-hot syrup gets drizzled into the beating whites in a thin, steady stream. The mixture transforms in real time from a wet meringue into a thick, marshmallow-like batter that holds its shape on a spoon. Stir in chopped nuts and coconut, scrape into a buttered pan, cool, cut into squares.

Pro Tips

• Use a candy thermometer. The hard-ball stage is the entire ballgame here. Underdone syrup means runny divinity that never sets; overdone means rock-hard candy.
• Make divinity on a dry day. Humidity is the enemy. The candy refuses to set when the air is wet.
• Stand mixer is highly recommended. The beating goes on for several minutes after the syrup goes in and your arm will give out.
• Drop the hot syrup in a thin stream against the side of the bowl, not directly on the whisk, or it splashes and hardens on the wires.

Variations

• Use lime, raspberry, or strawberry Jello for different fruit flavors and colors.
• Skip the coconut for nut-only divinity, or vice versa, depending on your camp.
• Swap pecans for walnuts or toasted almonds based on what you’ve got.