Cheesy Popovers

These cheesy popovers start in a cold oven and rise dramatically into golden, hollow puffs with a crispy shell and a savory hit of cheddar in every bite. Thyme, sage, and basil in the batter give them an herby depth that makes them stand on their own alongside roasts, soups, or just a smear of butter.

The cold-start method is unconventional for popovers, but it works. The batter heats gradually as the oven comes up to temperature, building steam slowly for a reliable rise without the drama of a preheated oven that can collapse them if you peek too early.

Piercing the popovers on four sides after baking lets trapped steam escape, and the 10-minute rest in the turned-off oven dries the interior so you get crispy walls instead of a soggy, doughy center.

Chef Tips

• Mix until just blended. Overmixing develops gluten, which makes the popovers tough instead of light and airy.
• Oil the muffin tins generously. Popovers stick aggressively, and they’ll tear when you try to remove them.
• Do not open the oven during the 30-minute bake. Every time you open the door, the temperature drops and the steam escapes, causing the popovers to deflate.
• Serve immediately after the drying step. Popovers lose their crispness quickly as they cool.

Variations

• Gruyere and herb popovers: Swap the cheddar for gruyere and add a pinch of nutmeg for a more refined, French-leaning flavor.
• Everything bagel popovers: Sprinkle everything bagel seasoning on top of the batter before baking for a crunchy, savory topping.