Besan Burfi

Besan burfi is an Indian sweet shop staple that runs on patience. Chickpea flour (besan) slowly toasts in ghee or shortening until its raw beaniness cooks off and a nutty, almost caramel flavor takes over. That slow roast is the single most important step. Undertoasted besan tastes flat, overtoasted tastes bitter.

The target color is a deep golden brown and the target smell is straight-up popcorn. From the moment you add the besan to the fat, it needs constant stirring over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, no shortcuts. Walk away and it scorches in seconds.

Crushed green cardamom seeds go in early so they bloom in the hot fat, releasing that floral, citrusy perfume that defines Indian sweets. Sugar gets stirred in off the heat, once the mixture has cooled slightly, or the sugar will go gritty instead of dissolving into the paste.

Kitchen Tips

• Traditional recipes use ghee instead of vegetable shortening. It adds a nuttier flavor and browns beautifully.
• Sift the besan first to break up any lumps, which will show up as raw pockets in the finished burfi.
• Score the diamond shapes while the burfi is still warm but not hot. Too cold and it cracks, too hot and it smears.
• Store in an airtight container at room temperature up to two weeks.

Variations

• Stir in chopped toasted pistachios, cashews, or slivered almonds with the sugar.
• Add a pinch of saffron soaked in a teaspoon of warm milk for a royal Mughlai touch.
• Swap half the sugar for powdered jaggery (gur) for a deeper, molasses-like caramel flavor.