Fabulous French Toast

This isn’t your typical weekday French toast. The bread soaks overnight in a sweetened milk-and-egg custard instead of a quick dip, and it fries in hot bacon grease instead of butter. The result is a golden-crusted, fully custardy slice that eats closer to bread pudding than breakfast.

Using unsliced French bread and cutting it ¾ inch thick is non-negotiable. Pre-sliced sandwich bread falls apart in the overnight soak. Thick custom slices stay intact and have room to soak all the way through without turning to paste.

The overnight refrigeration step is where the magic happens. Eight to twelve hours of soak time means the custard saturates the bread completely, including the crumb’s interior, so every bite is rich and creamy instead of dry in the middle.

Bacon grease is the old-school fry fat that makes this worth waking up for. Its smoke point is higher than butter (which burns fast), and it leaves a subtle savory note that plays beautifully against the sweet custard and maple syrup. Keep a jar of strained bacon fat in the fridge for exactly this purpose, or use vegetable oil as a substitute.

Top with powdered sugar and real maple syrup. Skip the pancake syrup here; the overnight effort deserves the real thing.

Chef Tips

• Heat the milk gently with the sugar to dissolve before adding eggs. Cold milk and undissolved sugar leave gritty custard.
• Temper the eggs by whisking a splash of warm milk in first if the milk is still hot. Straight hot milk scrambles the eggs.
• Fry over medium heat, not high. High heat scorches the outside before the custard-soaked center heats through.
• Keep finished slices warm on a wire rack in a 200°F (95°C) oven so they stay crisp. Plates trap steam and sog the bottoms.

Variations

• Add ½ teaspoon cinnamon and a pinch of nutmeg to the custard for spiced French toast.
• Use challah or brioche instead of French bread for an even richer slice.
• Serve with fresh sliced peaches or berries and a dollop of whipped cream for a dessert-style treatment.