Habitant Pea Soup

Soupe aux pois is the soul food of Quebec. Two cups of yellow split peas simmered for three hours with smoked ham hocks, onion, celery leaves, savory, thyme, and parsley until the peas dissolve into a thick, velvety potage that sticks to your ribs on a cold Canadian night.

Savory (sarriette in French) is the herb that makes this unmistakably Quebecois. It’s the seasoning that French-Canadian grandmothers reach for the way Southern cooks reach for bay leaves. Its slightly peppery, thyme-like flavor is inseparable from this dish, and skipping it means you’re making split pea soup, not habitant soup.

The ham hocks do triple duty. They add smoky, porky flavor to the broth, release collagen that gives the soup body, and yield tender shreds of meat that get stirred back in at the end. Two pounds is generous, but that’s how you build a soup thick enough to hold a spoon upright.

Three hours of gentle simmering is what breaks the peas down completely. Stir frequently to prevent sticking, especially toward the end when the soup thickens and the bottom can scorch.

Chef Tips

• Soak the peas overnight. It cuts the cooking time and gives you a more even texture
• Celery leaves (not stalks) are the traditional choice. They’re more aromatic and milder than the celery itself
• Pull the ham hocks out when done, shred the meat off the bones, and stir it back into the soup
• This soup thickens dramatically as it cools. Thin with water when reheating

Variations

• Smoked turkey: Replace ham hocks with a smoked turkey leg for a lighter, poultry-based version
• Bacon start: Render diced bacon in the pot before adding the peas and water for an extra smoky base
• Carrot and potato: Add diced carrots and potatoes in the last hour for a heartier, chunkier soup