Chicken Puffs

Chicken puffs are the cocktail-party appetizer that earned a spot in midcentury American kitchens for good reason. Tiny pate-a-choux shells made with Swiss cheese bake up crisp and hollow, then split open to hold a creamy chicken salad spiked with white wine and pimento.

The choux dough comes together fast on the stove. Boiling water, butter, and flour cook into a tight glossy ball, then an egg goes in off the heat to give the dough its puff. The cheese folds in last, melting into the dough and crisping the edges as the puffs bake.

Filling the shells while they’re cool keeps them from going soggy. The mayo binds the chicken, celery, and pimento into something rich, while a splash of dry white wine lifts the whole thing and keeps it from feeling heavy.

Pro Tips

• Beat the egg in vigorously while the dough is still warm but not hot. Too cool and the egg won’t incorporate, too hot and it scrambles.
• Use level teaspoons for even baking. Mixed sizes cook unevenly and some collapse.
• Don’t open the oven door during the first 15 minutes. Steam is what gives the puffs their lift.
• Make the shells a day ahead and re-crisp at 300°F (150°C) for 5 minutes before filling.

Variations

• Swap the chicken for cooked shrimp or crab for a coastal cocktail bite.
• Add a teaspoon of curry powder and a squeeze of lemon to the filling for a coronation-chicken twist.
• Stir chopped tarragon and a touch of Dijon into the filling for a French bistro vibe.