Great Peanut Butter Chiffon Pie

Chiffon pies are an architectural feat from the mid-20th century, and this peanut butter version is a fine example of the technique. Gelatin and beaten egg whites do the heavy work, holding what would otherwise be a heavy peanut butter custard into a structure light enough to feel almost weightless on a fork.

The custard base starts in a double boiler. Egg yolks, sugar, and water cook gently with bloomed gelatin until the gelatin fully dissolves and the eggs cook safely. Cool that base before stirring in peanut butter and chilling until slightly thickened, that texture is the cue to start whipping the egg whites.

The egg whites get beaten to stiff peaks, then sugar gradually incorporated for a glossy meringue. Folding that meringue into the chilled peanut butter custard is what turns the pie from custard into chiffon. Done correctly, the filling looks like peanut-tinted whipped cream, holding the shape of a soft mound when scooped.

A full chill (until set, typically 4 hours) is required for the gelatin to firm. Slice too soon and the filling collapses on the plate.

Pro Tips

• Bloom the gelatin in cold water for at least 5 minutes before adding to the hot custard. Skipping the bloom step leaves stringy gelatin pockets in the finished pie.
• Cool the custard fully before adding peanut butter. Hot custard liquefies the peanut butter unevenly and creates lumps.
• Watch the custard for that “slightly thickened” stage before adding the meringue. Folding into liquid base means the air gets lost; folding into set custard means the meringue won’t blend.
• Beat the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl. Any trace of fat or yolk and they refuse to whip to stiff peaks.
• Fold gently in three additions, never stir or whisk.

Variations

• Peanut brittle chiffon pie: stir ½ cup crushed peanut brittle into the custard before folding in the meringue.
• Use a chocolate cookie crumb crust for a chocolate-peanut variation.
• Top with shaved bittersweet chocolate along with the whipped cream.