Holland Spice Cookies

These are Dutch-style speculaas-adjacent slice-and-bakes, the kind of cookie an Old World oma kept rolled in waxed paper in the back of the icebox for unexpected visitors. The blend of butter and lard gives them a crisp-yet-tender snap that all-butter doughs can’t quite match, while sour cream keeps the crumb from going dry.

The lard is doing important work and worth seeking out. It melts at a higher temperature than butter, so the cookies hold their slice shape in the oven instead of spreading thin. The combination also creates that characteristic shortbread-like break when you bite in, the same texture you’d find in a traditional Dutch windmill cookie.

The overnight chill is the make-or-break step. Cold dough slices cleanly into perfect coins, while soft or warm dough drags under the knife and ends up oval-shaped. Eight hours in the fridge also gives the spices time to bloom into the dough so the flavor is deeper at the bake.

Three teaspoons of cinnamon is the headliner, with nutmeg and ground cloves backing it up. This isn’t a subtle spice cookie. It’s the warm, bold, slightly Christmas-y profile that defines northern European baking.

Pro Tips

• Sharp knife is a must for clean slices. A serrated knife works for chilled dough.
• Re-shape the rolls into a true cylinder before slicing. Slightly flattened rolls bake into oval cookies.
• The dough freezes beautifully for up to 3 months. Slice from frozen straight onto the baking sheet for fresh cookies any time.
• Watch the bake closely after 8 minutes. These go from gold to too-dark fast.

Variations

• Swap walnuts for pecans or chopped almonds for a different nutty character.
• Add a teaspoon of cardamom or a pinch of white pepper for a more Scandinavian profile.
• Roll the dough cylinders in coarse sugar before slicing for a sparkly edge.