Cornmeal Cookies

These are cousins to Italian polenta or zaletti cookies, where cornmeal replaces a portion of the wheat flour to add that signature gritty-tender texture and a faintly sweet, corn-bread flavor. They sit somewhere between a shortbread and a drop cookie, with just enough chew from the dried fruit to keep them interesting.

The ratio is what makes or breaks these. One cup of cornmeal to two and two-thirds cups of flour gives you visible flecks of yellow grit without crossing into actual cornbread territory. Use stone-ground or medium-grind cornmeal for the best texture. Fine cornmeal disappears, coarse cornmeal stays unpleasantly hard.

Nutmeg is the only spice here and it does heavy work. Freshly grated nutmeg gives a warm, slightly woodsy aroma that plays perfectly against the sweet cherries or raisins. Pre-ground nutmeg loses its punch within months of opening, so grate fresh if you can.

Chef Tips

• Cream the butter or margarine and sugar until truly pale and fluffy, not just combined. This step incorporates air that lifts the cookies as they bake.
• Don’t overbake. Pull them at the lightly-browned stage. The edges will firm up while cooling on the rack.
• Use a small cookie scoop for uniform size and even baking.

Variations

• Add 1 teaspoon lemon zest along with the vanilla for a brighter, more Italian-style cookie.
• Use chopped dried apricots or cranberries in place of cherries.
• Stir in ½ cup of chopped pistachios for color and a buttery crunch.