Hare, Rabbit, Veal or Chicken Stew with Herbs

This is proper country cooking: one heavy pot, a cheap cut of meat, a handful of aromatics, and pearl barley doing double duty as both starch and vegetable. It’s the kind of stew that rewards the long simmer and forgives almost any mistake along the way.

Leeks are the right choice over onions here. They lend a milder, almost sweet backbone that stands up to gamey meats like hare and rabbit without overpowering milder chicken or veal. A splash of white wine vinegar at the start brightens the broth and helps break down tougher cuts.

Barley slowly releases starch as it cooks, thickening the broth into something closer to a risotto than a watery stew. The sage goes in at the end so it stays grassy and aromatic rather than stewed into silence.

Chef Tips

• Brown the meat properly before adding liquid. Rushing this step costs you the deep flavor that makes a one-pot stew worth the wait.
• Rinse the pearl barley before adding. It removes surface starch so the broth stays clean rather than gluey.
• Check the pot at the 1-hour mark. Rabbit and chicken cook faster than veal or hare; you want the meat tender enough to fall from the bone.
• If the stew looks dry, add hot water a splash at a time. Barley absorbs a surprising amount of liquid.

Variations

• Substitute ½ cup of dry white wine for part of the water for more depth.
• Add chopped root vegetables (parsnip, carrot, turnip) with the leeks for a heartier winter version.
• Stir in a handful of chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon at the end for a fresher finish.