Italian Barley Soup

Three hours of simmering turns a handful of humble ingredients into a thick, deeply flavored Italian soup that sticks to your ribs.

Pearl barley goes into the pot first with stock and water, then celery, grated carrots, onion, garlic, red wine, and a strip of lemon peel join in for a long, slow simmer. The barley releases starch as it cooks, thickening the broth into something closer to a stew. Tomatoes, tomato paste, and a full bouquet of Italian herbs (basil, oregano, rosemary, parsley, bay leaves) go in for the last hour.

Stir this pot often. Barley loves to stick to the bottom, and once it scorches, that burnt taste gets into everything.

Kitchen Tips

• Grate the carrots instead of dicing. They dissolve into the broth over 3 hours and add body without visible chunks.
• Add the herbs and tomatoes in the last hour, not at the start. Long cooking dulls fresh herb flavors.
• The lemon zest is subtle but important. It brightens the whole pot and keeps the long-cooked flavors from tasting flat.
• A generous handful of grated Parmesan stirred in right before serving adds salt and richness. Don’t skip it.

Variations

• Use farro instead of barley for a chewier, nuttier grain.
• Add cannellini beans or chickpeas in the last 30 minutes for extra protein.
• Stir in a few handfuls of chopped kale or Swiss chard at the very end for a greens-loaded version.