Cantonese Barbecue Pork

This is char siu, the glossy, sweet-and-savory Cantonese barbecue pork you’ve admired hanging in Chinatown windows. Strips of well-marbled pork shoulder soak in a sticky marinade of honey, hoisin, soy sauce, ginger, and a splash of wine, then roast until the edges caramelize into dark, lacquered, slightly chewy perfection.

Patience is the main ingredient. The pork marinates at least overnight, and up to three days, which is what drives that deep, complex sweet-savory flavor all the way through the meat rather than just coating the surface. Cutting it into long strips before marinating exposes more surface area to the marinade and more edges to caramelize.

The roast happens in two stages: a moderate heat to cook the pork through and tender, then a final blast of high heat to char and lacquer the exterior. Let it cool a bit before slicing thin across the grain for tender pieces. Beyond serving it with hoisin or hot mustard for dipping, char siu is endlessly useful: fold it into fried rice, pile it over noodles or ramen, or stuff it into steamed bao. Swap tamari for the soy sauce to keep it gluten-free.

Pro Tips

• Marinate at least overnight, up to three days. The long soak is what gives char siu its deep flavor.
• Cut the pork into long strips before marinating for more surface area and more caramelized edges.
• Finish with a blast of high heat to lacquer and char the exterior, the signature char siu look.
• Slice thin across the grain after cooling for the most tender pieces.

Variations

• Add a little Chinese five-spice, or a touch of red food coloring for the classic Chinatown red edge.
• Use pork loin for a leaner result, watching closely so it doesn’t dry out.
• Use the sliced pork in fried rice, noodle soups, bao buns, or lettuce wraps.