Gramma Bahrt's Salmon Piroghi

This is old-country comfort, a Russian-style salmon pie (cousin to the grand coulibiac) handed down through the family. Inside a flaky double crust go layers of rice cooked in chicken stock, coarsely flaked salmon, sliced hard-boiled eggs, and a butter-and-chive mixture poured over it all.

There’s smart structure at work here. The bottom crust gets par-baked and brushed with butter before any filling touches it, and the rice is patted against the base and sides to form a barrier. Both moves keep the pastry from turning soggy under the moist salmon.

A whisper of nutmeg and a squeeze of lemon brighten the fish, while an egg-yolk glaze gives the top crust its deep, glossy bronze.

Don’t forget to vent the lid so steam escapes instead of bloating the pie. Cut it into wedges and serve with a fresh spinach salad.

Kitchen Tips

• Par-bake the bottom crust and pack rice against it. Both are barriers that keep the base crisp under the wet filling.
• Cook the rice in chicken stock rather than water for a savory, seasoned layer.
• Cut steam vents in the top crust so it doesn’t dome up and split.
• Tent the pie loosely with foil if the crust colors before the filling is hot through.

Variations

• Use canned or leftover cooked salmon to turn it into a quick pantry pie.
• Swap the salmon for cooked chicken or a firm white fish.
• Stir sautéed mushrooms or fresh dill into the filling for a more classic coulibiac flavor.