MacKerel with Rhubarb

Rhubarb and mackerel is a classic British pairing, and it works for the same reason applesauce works with pork: the sharp tartness of the fruit cuts through the richness of the oily fish like a knife.

The stuffing is simple but clever. Chopped rhubarb cooked with onion and bound with breadcrumbs gets rolled inside each fillet, giving every bite of rich mackerel a burst of sour, fruity flavor right in the center. The breadcrumbs absorb the rhubarb juices during baking so the stuffing stays together instead of leaking out.

A separate rhubarb sauce gets made while the fish bakes. Rhubarb stewed with sugar, lemon zest, and a splash of water, then pushed through a sieve into a smooth, blush-pink puree. It’s tart enough to wake up your palate but sweetened just enough to balance the sour edge.

Pro Tips

• Lay the fillets skin-side down before spreading the stuffing. The skin holds the roll together during baking.
• Don’t overstuff the fillets. A thin, even layer of filling rolls more tightly and cooks more evenly.
• Use fresh, firm rhubarb stalks. Limp, older stalks turn to mush before the fish is done.
• Taste the sauce before serving and adjust sugar. Rhubarb tartness varies wildly by season and variety.

Variations

• Use real butter instead of margarine for a richer stuffing with more flavor.
• Add a pinch of ground ginger to the rhubarb sauce for warmth that complements the fish.
• Serve on a bed of buttered new potatoes or alongside wilted spring greens for a full seasonal meal.