Basque Shepherd's Pie

Basque shepherd’s pie is a different animal from the British cottage classic. There is no lamb here, no mashed topping, no oven. This is mountain shepherd food, cooked in one skillet over a low flame, the way Pyrenean herders used to feed themselves with whatever was in the pack.

Bacon goes in first to render its fat, which becomes the cooking medium for thinly sliced potatoes softened with onion, parsley, and a pinch of thyme. The reserved drippings carry the smoke through every layer. Once the potatoes are barely tender, beaten eggs and a splash of milk get poured over the top and the whole thing cooks covered until the custard sets like a cross between a Spanish tortilla and a frittata.

The trick is patience. Low heat keeps the potatoes from scorching in the bacon fat and lets the eggs set gently without rubbery curds. Slide it onto a plate, shower with the crisp bacon crumbles, and cut into wedges. Serve with a green salad and a glass of cold cider, the Basque way.

Pro Tips

• Slice the potatoes paper thin, about ⅛ inch. Thicker slices will not cook through before the eggs overset.
• Keep the heat low and the lid on. Rushing the potato stage gives you burned bottoms and crunchy centers.
• Loosen the edges with a wide spatula before flipping onto a plate. A stuck edge will tear the whole pie.
• Leftovers are fantastic cold, sliced into a baguette with a smear of aioli.

Variations

• Add a handful of piquillo peppers or roasted red pepper strips for a sweeter, smokier version.
• Swap the bacon for chorizo and use its rendered fat for a deeper, paprika-laced flavor.
• Stir in a cup of wilted spinach or chard with the potatoes for a greener supper.