Vege Burgers

These vege burgers come from the era before the Beyond Burger, the Impossible patty, and every other lab-engineered meat substitute on the market. The simple formula is the appeal: ground walnuts (or pecans) provide the meaty, savory bulk; cooked rice and seasoned breadcrumbs bind everything; sauteed mirepoix vegetables (onion, celery, carrot) add the savory depth that makes them taste like a meal rather than a patty of grain.

The technique is straightforward but order matters. The vegetables get cooked in butter until soft and sweet, then cool completely before mixing with the rest. Hot vegetables added to raw eggs scramble them on contact, and you end up with bits of cooked egg in the patty mix instead of a smooth binder.

Grinding the nuts is the small detail that gives these their texture. Whole or chopped nuts make crumbly, fall-apart patties; finely ground nuts behave like ground meat and let the patty hold its shape on the spatula.

Broiling rather than pan-frying keeps the burgers from soaking up extra oil. The dry heat builds a brown crust on top and bottom, and the vegetable-and-nut mix cooks through gently. The result is a burger you can pick up with your hands and eat on a bun without it disintegrating.

Pro Tips

• Pulse the walnuts in a food processor until they look like coarse meal but stop before they turn to nut butter. Over-processed nuts release oil and the burgers turn greasy.
• Toast the nuts before grinding for noticeably better flavor. A few minutes in a dry pan over medium heat wakes up the oils.
• Chill the formed patties for 15 to 30 minutes before broiling. Cold patties hold their shape better and the binders set firmly.
• Make a double batch and freeze the uncooked patties between sheets of parchment paper. They cook from frozen with just a couple extra minutes added.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of soy sauce or Worcestershire to the mix for deeper umami and a more meaty flavor.
• Stir in a quarter cup of grated sharp cheddar for cheesy richness.
• Top each burger with a slice of melted Swiss, a layer of caramelized onions, and a smear of Dijon mustard for a French-style veggie burger.