Cornmeal Hoecake

Three ingredients. Cornmeal, water, and salt. That’s a hoecake, and it’s been feeding people in the American South since before there were ovens to bake cornbread in. Pat the wet cornmeal mixture onto a hot greased griddle, cook it low and slow for about 30 minutes total, and you get a golden, crusty flatbread that’s crispy on the outside and tender inside.

The name comes from field workers who originally cooked these on the flat blade of a garden hoe held over a fire. The technique hasn’t changed much since.

Letting the batter rest for a few minutes after mixing is important. The cornmeal absorbs the water and swells, telling you if you need to add more to get a spreadable consistency. Too dry and it crumbles; too wet and it won’t hold its shape on the griddle.

Kitchen Tips

• Use a heavy cast iron griddle or skillet for the most even heat and the best crust.
• Reduce the heat after placing the batter on the griddle. Low, steady heat cooks the center through without burning the bottom.
• Pat to about half an inch thick. Thinner cooks faster but loses the soft interior; thicker stays raw in the middle.
• Serve hot with butter. Hoecakes cool quickly and the crust softens once they lose heat.