Michaelmas Broth

Michaelmas broth is a centerpiece of the September 29th feast day of Saint Michael, traditionally served in Ireland and Britain to mark the end of the harvest. It’s a deeply restorative soup, the kind of clear, golden broth your grandmother makes when you’re under the weather.

The technique is patient but completely unfussy. A whole chicken gets joint and dropped into cold water with diced onion, carrot, and celery, then simmered low and slow for three hours. The collagen from the bones renders into the liquid, giving the finished broth its silky body and rich mouthfeel.

Skimming the fat is the difference between a clean, glossy broth and a greasy one. Pull the surface scum off every 30 minutes or so with a ladle or fine skimmer.

The rice goes in at the very end, after the chicken is pulled out and the broth strained. Twenty minutes of gentle simmering plumps the long-grain into tender pearls without turning the broth cloudy.

Finely chopped meat from the simmered bird gets stirred back in for a slightly heartier bowl, or the broth gets served clear with rice for a more delicate course.

Pro Tips

• Use a stewing hen or older bird if you can find one. They have more flavor and gelatin than supermarket broilers.
• Don’t salt the broth aggressively until after straining. Three hours of simmering concentrates flavors and seasoning.
• Strain through cheesecloth or a fine-mesh sieve for crystal-clear broth worthy of the holiday.
• Save the picked-clean carcass and stewed vegetables for a second-day chicken stock.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of barley alongside the rice for a more substantial harvest-feast version.
• Stir in a handful of chopped fresh parsley or chives just before serving for color and freshness.
• Finish with a squeeze of lemon for brightness that wakes up the long-simmered flavors.