Greek Pasticio

Think of pastitsio as Greece’s answer to lasagna, with one secret weapon: warm spice. What sets this meat sauce apart from an Italian ragu is the cinnamon and allspice simmered right into the tomatoes and beef, giving the whole dish a cozy, faintly sweet backnote that has people asking what’s in it.

Start by browning the ground beef with onion and garlic, then add the spices and tomatoes and let it simmer so the flavors deepen and the sauce reduces and thickens. Meanwhile, cook the pasta just to al dente, since it keeps cooking in the oven and you don’t want it turning mushy.

The crowning layer is a bechamel made richer than usual: a butter-and-flour roux loosened with milk, then melted through with parmesan and crumbled feta. The feta brings a tangy, salty edge that plain white sauce lacks. Pour it over the meat-and-pasta base and bake until the top sets golden.

Pro Tips

• Don’t overcook the pasta. It bakes again, so pull it while still firm or it collapses into paste.
• Drain the canned tomatoes well so the sauce simmers down thick instead of watery.
• Stir the bechamel constantly as it thickens to keep it lump-free, and add the cheeses off the hottest heat so they melt smoothly.
• A pinch of sugar in the sauce rounds out the acidity of the tomatoes.

Variations

• Use ground lamb in place of beef for a more traditional, richer flavor.
• Tube-shaped pasta like ziti or bucatini holds the sauce best and stands up to baking.
• Stir a beaten egg into the cooled bechamel for a firmer, custardy topping that slices cleanly.