How to choose the right cookware
What factors entered into your last cookware
procurement? Price is always a consideration. But were you influenced
by the color, the neat little glass lid that allows you to see inside,
or maybe the free utensils it came with?
Much to the delight of purveyors, emotional
inclinations and aesthetic trappings produce impulse purchases. I just
had to have that red, (my favorite color), tea kettle, even though I own
a perfectly functional stainless steel one. Not that there is anything
wrong with these yearnings. We are human and indulging our impulses
makes us feel good. But if you’re a serious cook, you will need much
more than your desires to guide you toward the proper equipment.
The primary consideration in choosing
cookware is the material it is constructed from. Copper is the most
expensive but also the best heat conductor. Superior heat conduction
allows for even cooking. For example, you will find pans on the market
made from stainless steel, a fair conductor, with a thick reinforced
bottom containing aluminum, a better conductor. The problem here is the
heat conduction is not evenly dispersed throughout the pan and the
bottom of your food will cook at an unacceptably disproportionate rate.
You cannot braise food efficiently in such a pan. A pan with thorough
and even heat conduction also eliminates “hot spots”. These are
sections of the pan that are hotter than others, which render browning
your food uniformly a frustrating challenge. Finally, a pan with good
heat conduction rapidly responds to increases or decreases in
temperature, thus allowing quick control over the heat level. This
attribute is necessary for successful sautéing.
The problem with copper cookware, (beside
the price), is reactivity. Copper, aluminum, and to a lesser extent
cast iron, are “reactive” metals. That means they will chemically
combine with certain foods, usually acidic ones, and alter the flavor
and color of your preparation. Not to mention that you will be
consuming unwanted levels of the metal. Copper discolors and scratches
easily as well. I recommend having at least one copper bowl for beating
egg whites. For reasons scientifically complex involving copper ions,
(which I will not bore you with here), copper is superior for beating
egg whites to maximal volume.
Aluminum is a good heat conductor but as
stated, reactive. Aluminum is also a soft metal and eventually
deteriorates but remains popular because it’s inexpensive. There are
anodized aluminum pans, which are chemically treated to prevent
reactivity. If you insist on aluminum, anodized is the way to go.
Cast iron is also a superb heat conductor
and inexpensive. However it has drawbacks as well: rusting, pitting,
reactivity, and sticking to food. For all of these reasons cast iron
pans must be “seasoned.” This means coating the entire pan, inside and
out with oil or shortening and baking it to seal the fat into the pan.
This will thwart rusting and reactivity, and give you a non-stick
surface. Of course this protective layer breaks down over time and the
process must be repeated. Some cast iron pans are coated with enamel.
This is an attempt to ameliorate the dilemmas of cast iron while
maintaining exceptional heat conduction. I have one cast iron skillet
for searing steaks. Nothing aside from a grill chars the exterior so
thoroughly.
You’re probably realizing that there is no
perfect pan. So which material can give us most of the qualities we
desire with no glaring deficits? Stainless steel is the ultimate
compromise. It provides the mid range in price and heat conduction, is
durable, easy to clean, and non-reactive. But wait, we can push the
perfection curve even further. To increase stainless steel’s heat
conduction, aluminum is often sandwiched between an internal and
external layer of stainless steel. In a high quality pan, this layer
extends all the way up the sides, not just the bottom. Now we have a
pan that embraces everything with one exception: price. You can’t have
it all and when you do you have to pay for it.
If you want the ultimate quality, and are
willing to spend the money on a cookware set that will literally last a
lifetime, than I would recommend All-Clad. No, I do not get free
cookware from them for promoting their products. I am simply steering
you toward the best cookware on the market. I would recommend their
stainless steel with aluminum interior. It’s heavy gauge stainless
steel with good conductivity and top-notch construction. But you will
pay over $500 for a set.
The bottom line is better cookware will cook
your food better. The degree of your culinary zealousness, the type of
cooking you do, and your wallet will determine your final choice. I
suggest you acquire the best stainless steel set you can afford plus a
few specialty pieces, (non-stick, cast iron, copper, etc.), for unique
items best suited to these materials.
|
