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ALL CHOKED UP
Ok, connect these dots. What do artichokes and
sexism have in common? Well, many foods in medieval and ancient history were
falsely ascribed with positive or negative attributes. Tomatoes and potatoes
for example, brought from the new world by the early European explorers,
were thought to be poisonous. Can you imagine Italians believing tomatoes
were poisonous? Artichokes, which originated in Sicily, were not only
thought to be medicinal, but an aphrodisiac as well. Women were subsequently
forbidden to consume them, an edict which undoubtedly arose from men’s
attempt to control possible infidelity. It’s hard to tell which is worse,
the lack of intelligence or the lack of social justice. In any event, along
came Catherine De Medicis, the Florentine princess who married King Henry II
of France and influenced the shape of French cuisine for all eternity. She
liked artichokes and since she was the queen, she had the authority to
propagate their cultivation and consumption. You go girl!
Artichokes are neither medicinal or an
aphrodisiac but they are delicious and versatile. Choose artichokes with
tight, compact leaves, (which squeak when you squeeze them), which are heavy
for their size, and with minimal brown spots. Artichokes are a flower bud
from the thistle family. With mature artichokes you must remove the inedible
choke, the mass of fibers located just above the prized heart which would
eventually form the flower. This is not an issue with baby, (immature)
artichokes since the choke has not formed yet. How to prepare artichokes is
determined by how you wish to cook them.
The simplest way to eat an artichoke is to
cut off the stem and boil them for 15 minutes or until a knife inserted in
the base easily penetrates. You may need to place something on top of them
in the pot to keep them fully submerged, such as a steamer insert or a small
upside down colander with a weight on it. When they are done, pull off the
leaves one by one, dip them in melted butter, and scrape the fleshy base of
the leaf off with your teeth. As you get closer to the center the leaves
become tender and you can eat them whole. When you reach the heart you will
need to scrape or cut out the choke. Then dip the yummy heart in your butter
and enjoy.
You can also broil or braise them. For either
method, cut the top quarter of the artichoke off. Cut off the tip of the
stem and peel it up to and including the base. Cut the artichoke in half
lengthwise. In the center, just above the heart you will see the nasty,
hairy choke. Scrape that sucker out. I find a grapefruit spoon, with its
curved array of teeth works best. Immediately place the artichoke in water
with lemon juice. Artichoke interiors will turn brown when exposed to the
air, (thanks to the process of oxidation). Acids will counteract this
reaction.
To broil them, remove them from the water,
pat them dry and immediately toss them in a bowl with extra virgin olive
oil, salt, and pepper. Place them on a sheet tray and broil them for 5-7
minutes, (depending on their size), then flip them and broil for a couple
more minutes. Do not place them too close to the broiler or they will burn.
Eat them as is, or add fresh olive oil, butter, or herbs. Or chop them and
add them to your pasta primavera.
To braise them, take a mixture of olive oil,
lemon juice, chicken or vegetable stock, chopped garlic, (optional), the
herbs of your choice, and salt and pepper. How much of the mixture will
depend on how many artichokes and their size. Figure on a cup of stock and a
half cup each of oil and juice for 7-9 artichokes and then work from there.
Bring all of the ingredients except the artichokes to a boil, pour it over
the artichokes in a baking dish, cover, and place in a 350 degree preheated
oven for 30 – 45 minutes.
Or you can make marinated artichoke hearts.
Yes I’m aware you can buy them jarred but if you’re a jar or can person I’m
assuming you wouldn’t be reading a cooking column. Prepare and boil the
artichokes as in the above boiled recipe. Shock them in ice water to cool
them quickly so you can work with them. Remove all the leaves, (save them
for snacking), and the choke, until you are left with just the hearts.
Quarter them and toss them in vinaigrette. A basic vinaigrette is a three to
one ratio of oil to acid. Use extra virgin olive oil and either lemon juice
or vinegar. I like red wine or champagne vinegar. Slowly drizzle the oil
into the acid whisking constantly. Then add chopped herbs, a pinch of sugar,
salt and pepper. You can also add a little Dijon mustard if you like.
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