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CHIANTI
“I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti,” asserts Dr.
Hanibal Lechter in “Silence of the Lambs.” Bizarre as his gastronomic
choices may be, he at least knows his wine and food pairings. Well, I
certainly can’t speak for human liver, but as for liver in general, yeah,
Chianti would work. Too bad this wonderful wine will be associated with
lurid madness for many years to come. Let’s see if we can undo that.
Chianti is named for the Chianti region of
Tuscany in Italy. It is made primarily from the Sangiovese grape, although a
variety of others are often incorporated. In fact, many “Super Tuscans” are
blends of Sangiovese and other grapes but that’s another story. Like all
wines, quality depends on geographic location. Some vineyards and
microclimates produce better wines than others.
The Chianti region includes seven subzones.
Your basic Chianti hails from within the Chianti borders but not from within
any of the subzones. The label will simply state “Chianti.” Wines from one
of the seven subdivisions however, are often better in quality. The best of
the seven is the “Classico” region. Chianti Classico can be identified by a
black rooster on the label, inevitably on the neck of the bottle. Wine from
any of the remaining subzones may list the name of zone on the label, or may
only be labeled “Chianti,” like it’s generic brethren. The word “riserva” on
the label indicates a wine of superior quality that has been aged for three
years prior to distribution. Avoid Chiantis in the traditional straw covered
bottles, (known as a fiaschi). They are usually of poorer quality.
Although not as important in Chianti as
compared to other wine areas, (e.g., Bordeaux, Burgundy and Piedmont to name
a few), it doesn’t hurt to know who the better producers are. Two chefs can
utilize the same ingredient from identical sources, but one produces an
average dish while the other concocts a meal fit for a king. For the
cerebral, there are many books that list well known producers. For the
experiential, try different brands and keep tasting notes to guide your
future choices. Or, if you’re well rounded and zealous, do both.
Chianti is a dry, red wine that can be light
and somewhat vapid, (at the lower end of the quality continuum), to medium
or full-bodied with respectable tannin and acidity. However, good Chianti
will also embrace a balance of fruit flavors, cherry being the most often
noted. This marriage of tannin, acid, and fruity or flowery essences
produces a flavorful harmony appealing to the entire palate. Tannins by the
way are a group of astringent substances found in grapes which bestow wine
with structure, texture and flavor. Wines with higher tannins will have
greater “backbone” and need time to age as the tannins mellow, intermingle
with the other compounds, and deepen the character of the wine. Good
Chiantis can age five to eight years while top quality wines from
exceptional vintages can age beyond ten.
Because Chianti is generally a medium bodied
wine, it possesses diversity with the foods it can be paired with. But a
little common sense is in order. For example, I would not serve a light,
cheaper Chianti with a roast. It’s simply too weak to stand up to the robust
flavor of the meat. That’s when you splurge on the Classico or the riserva.
Likewise, I would not match a top Chianti with more delicate foods or dishes
with light sauces. It would be too overpowering.
Chianti is superb with pasta and other tomato
sauce based dishes. The acidity of Chianti complements the acidity of the
tomatoes to create a balanced fusion. Oh, and beer move over. Try Chianti
with your next pizza. It’s a perfect match. Chianti however, also goes well
with a variety of meats, especially veal dishes such as Marsala or any other
brown sauces.
Chianti is generally an inexpensive wine.
Your basic Chianti will run you less than $10. The upper echelon will rarely
exceed $30. You can easily find Classico or riserva Chiantis in the high
teens to $20. My absolute favorite everyday wine is Ruffino Chianti. You can
find it in any liquor store for under $10. Chianti should be served at a
temperature in the mid 60s. And if Dr. Lechter’s coming for dinner, just
have him bring the wine. You do the cooking.
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