Blanching 101
Blanching is a cooking
technique whereby food, usually vegetables or fruits, are briefly immersed
in boiling, salted water, and then submerged in an ice water bath, (known as
“shocking”), to halt the cooking process. Blanching is utilized to:
Softening Food
Heat can
be transmitted to food via direct contact, e.g., a grill, or indirectly
through a medium. In the case of roasting and/or baking, this medium
is air. With boiling, it is obviously water. Water is a far more efficient
medium for transmitting heat than air. This is because water is denser. A
food submerged in water has greater contact with the water molecules than
the air molecules in an oven. Place one potato in boiling water, (212
degrees), and another in a 400 degree oven, and the boiled potato will be
done in half the time or less. Thus, boiling is a quick and convenient
method for tenderizing food.
Sometimes the food just needs to be blanched and it’s done. For example, if
you were making an asparagus salad, 60-90 seconds, (depending on the
thickness of the asparagus), is sufficient to produce ample tenderness. On
the other hand, blanching can be a prelude to a secondary cooking method
such as sautéing. Sticking with our asparagus example, if you wished to
sauté thicker asparagus, or white asparagus, which tends to be quite
fibrous, you are likely to burn the outside before the center has cooked
completely. A brief blanch and the asparagus will sauté quicker and more
uniformly. String beans, broccoli, and root vegetables are other common
vegetables that may be blanched before their introduction to the frying
pan.
Preserving Color
Green
vegetables are green because of chlorophyll, their primary pigment.
Chlorophyll’s archenemy is heat which causes it to break down and form other
compounds that are less green. Despite the heat involved, blanching still
preserves the vegetable’s color. Here’s how. Green vegetables are actually
greener than they appear. Trapped within their cellular network are gases
that partially obscure their hue by refracting light. Sort of like looking
at a colored object through a veil of smoke. The first thing the boiling
water does is to allow the dissemination of these gases into the air and
surrounding water. Thus, the veggies “become” greener. But, as stated,
heat can destroy their pigments. This is because the same heat that freed
the gases is also releasing acids from the plant’s cells which will reap
havoc with the chlorophyll. But, because of the water, these acids become
dispersed and diluted in the fluid medium.
Chlorophyll’s salvation however, is short lived. Beyond 6-7 minutes in the
boiling water and acids or not, the sustained heat will eventuate in the
complete breakdown of the plant’s structures and substances. Fortunately,
most vegetables can be blanched in a fraction of that time. The final step,
shocking, ensures the termination of the cooking process. When vegetables
are removed from boiling water, the heat retained within them will continue
to cook them, a phenomenon known as carry over cooking. The ice
water will take care of that fly in the ointment. But, remove the veggies
as soon as they’re cold since extended soaking will also cause the color to
dissipate.
There are three
other considerations vital to this process. First, the water MUST be at a
boil when the vegetables are introduced. If not, the lower temperature will
give the releasing acids more time to harass the chlorophyll before being
leached into the water and air. You must also use a large amount of water.
When you drop room temperature vegetables into boiling water they will lower
the temperature of the water and temporarily interrupt the boiling process.
The larger the volume of water, the less the drop in temperature, the
quicker the water can recover to a boil, and the more you will preserve the
vegetable’s color. Finally, never cover the blanching veggies or the gases
and acids will not be able to escape into the air.
Skin Removal
A quick bath in
boiling water is a very convenient means of removing the skins of some
fruits and vegetables. Tomatoes are the best example. Make a small
crisscross cut in the bottom of the tomato, drop it in the boiling water for
30 seconds and then into the ice water. The skin will peel right off. Now
remove the seeds and you are ready to make tomato sauce or tomato concasśe,
(peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes), for use in various recipes.
Eliminating Bitterness
Some vegetables have bitter flavors, the
quintessential example being broccoli rabe. Here again, pesky acids are at
work. As with the acids hassling the chlorophyll, they can be driven off by
the boiling process. Simply blanch the broccoli rabe for one minute in
salted water, shock in the ice water, pat dry and sauté.