Asparagus:
The Herald of Spring
Chefs and gourmets the world over eagerly
await the arrival of spring. No other time of year can match the bounty of
fresh fruits and vegetables available. Many will only be obtainable at this
time. Asparagus is available year round but it’s peak season runs from
February through June. Thus, it is one of the earliest harbingers of spring
and an indispensable commodity on all seasonal menus.
Asparagus, a member of the lily family,
probably originated in the Eastern Mediterranean. Because
it is found wild in so many areas of the globe, some uncertainty exists as
to the whereabouts of its genesis. Indeed, a friend of mine who lives in a
remote region of eastern Washington
State has asparagus growing wild on his property. We do know that it was
first cultivated 2,500 years ago by the Greeks and was equally cherished by
the Romans who ascribed it with medicinal properties. It won’t cure any
diseases but it is a good source of vitamins A and C, folic acid, potassium
and fiber.
Choose asparagus that are
firm and bright green, with in tact tips. Cook it as soon as possible as it
deteriorates fairly rapidly. Store it in a plastic bag with a damp paper
towel wrapped around the stems. It will last about 3 days. Cut off the
last inch or two of the stem or wherever it snaps naturally when you bend it
near the end. Large asparagus are more mature, less tender, and also need
to be peeled.
White asparagus, which are
more popular in Europe, are grown underground to prevent the development of
chlorophyll. They are tenderer with a mild and nuttier taste. However, no
matter what size, their exteriors are fibrous and always need to be peeled.
And in case you’re
wondering, the reason your urine smells after consuming asparagus is because
it contains a sulfur compound called mercaptan. Enzymes in your body break
down the mercaptan into its stinky component parts. There is disagreement
within the scientific community over which of these constituents is the
fowl-smelling culprit. Moreover, because of human genetic variability, not
everyone has the enzymes to metabolize mercaptan so some individuals will
not produce urinary odor. And to take it one step further, there is even
genetic diversity in our ability to detect the odor. Thus, some may have it
without knowing it.
Asparagus is quite
versatile. It can be cooked by virtually every cooking method. It can be
boiled, steamed, simmered, grilled, roasted, sautéed and fried. It can be
served cold or hot, pureed into soups, used in pasta sauce, etc. At one
restaurant I worked I made asparagus flan. I thought it was absolutely
gross but it exemplifies the breadth of asparagus’ culinary applications.
ASPARAGUS SALAD
WITH TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE
For the salad:
6 large spears of
asparagus
1 batch of mache, (or
other salad green)
Parmesan cheese strips,
as needed
Salt to taste
For the dressing:
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon Champagne
vinegar
2 tablespoons black
truffle oil
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Trim the ends of the
asparagus and peel them. Then blanch them for one and a half minutes in
boiling salted water and then submerge in ice water. Place the minced
shallot and vinegar in a bowl. Slowly drizzle in the oils, constantly
whisking. Season with salt and pepper.
Stack the asparagus in a
crosswise pattern on the plate like a number sign (#). Place the mache in
the center of the asparagus. Using a peeler, peel some strips of Parmesan
cheese and arrange around the mache. Sprinkle salad with salt. Drizzle
some of the dressing over the mache and asparagus.
WHITE ASPARAGUS
Juice of 1-2 lemons
3 tablespoons of butter
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 batch, (about 1-2 lbs.)
white asparagus, peeled.
Add the lemon juice,
butter, and salt to a pot of water and bring to a simmer. Peel the
asparagus and trim the ends. Simmer until tender. How long this takes will
vary with the size of the asparagus so check them frequently.
BAKED ASPARAGUS WITH
PARMESAN CREAM SAUCE
4 oz heavy cream
1 oz grated Parmesan cheese
4 large asparagus spears
1 tablespoon butter
3 tablespoons chicken broth
Salt, pepper, and paprika to taste
Preheat oven to 350
degrees. Mix the cream and cheese, bring to a boil, and then simmer for
five minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Trim the ends of the
asparagus and peel them. Then blanch them for one minute in boiling salted
water and then submerge in ice water. Place asparagus into a baking dish.
Add chicken broth and butter and then place into oven until heated through,
about 3-5 minutes. Arrange asparagus on plate, season with salt, pepper and
paprika, and then drizzle with sauce.
|
