Favourite Lomi Lomi Salmon

Lomi lomi salmon is the cold raw salmon side that lives on every Hawaiian luau plate next to the kalua pig and the poi. The name comes from the Hawaiian word for “massage"; traditionally the cured salmon was rubbed between fingers to break it into small pieces and work the flavor into ripe diced tomatoes and sweet yellow onion.

The key ingredient is salt salmon (Hawaiian-style cured salmon). It needs a 3 to 5 hour soak with water changes every hour or so to draw off enough salt that the finished dish is seasoned, not aggressive. After soaking, peel the skin and pull the bones before flaking and combining with the tomato and onion.

The ice is doing real work too. Resting the mixed bowl on ice until service keeps the salmon firm and the tomato crisp; this is a deliberately cold preparation, not just chilled. Spooning into hollowed tomato shells turns it into individual servings that look like a Hawaiian salad course.

Chef Tips

• Taste the soaking salmon after 3 hours; if it still reads too salty, change the water and soak another hour or two.
• Use the ripest tomatoes you can find; underripe ones throw the whole balance off.
• Dice everything to a similar small size so each spoonful gets all three flavors at once.
• Add the green onions and crushed ice only at serving so they stay crisp and bright.

Variations

• If you cannot source salt salmon, lightly cure fresh salmon by burying it in coarse salt for 2 to 3 hours, then rinsing and proceeding.
• Use Maui onions when in season for a sweeter, juicier bite.
• Serve in a bowl with rice and a side of poi for a more traditional Hawaiian plate.