Debate exists about whether to wash mushrooms because of their aforementioned propensity to absorb water. Many suggest wiping them with a damp cloth or with a special mushroom brush. However, as long as you don’t soak them in water and you dry them after washing, you can rely on your faucet. But don’t wash them until you’re ready to use them. Store them in the fridge up to three days in contact with circulating air. No vacuum sealed plastic bags please. Mushrooms do not need to be peeled. Trim the stem end except for shitakes, whose stems are woody and inedible and must be removed entirely. Mushrooms contain selenium, potassium, copper, and B-complex vitamins, and are purported to have anti-cancer properties. Nowadays however, everything either causes cancer or fights cancer.

Mushrooms can be cooked in innumerable ways although the dry heat methods are best. They are loaded with water and techniques that release it will intensify the mushroom’s flavor. Sautéing is my personal favorite. Mushrooms add an earthy flavor to food. I like mushroom dishes with burgundy, an earthy-flavor friendly wine.

MUSHROOM STOCK

Use this stock as a base for mushroom soup or a mushroom sauce. For the latter, deglaze the pan with some of the stock after sautéing the protein. Then add sautéed mushrooms and either reduce the fluid or add flour to make a gravy.

1 lb sliced mushrooms
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves
2-3 cloves
1 bay leaf
2-3 sprigs of thyme
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the mushrooms in butter or olive oil until just browned, or lay them out on a large sheet tray and bake at 375 until browned. Add the mushrooms, onion, garlic, cloves, bay leaf, and thyme to a stockpot. Add just enough water to cover the mushrooms and simmer for two hours. Check it periodically to see if you need to add water. Add as little as necessary. Strain the stock, simmer for another 10-15 minutes to reduce and concentrate it further and then season with salt and pepper.

DUXELLES

Duxelles is a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots and herbs cooked in butter. It is used to flavor soups and sauces, as a garnish, and a stuffing. Take a thinly pounded pork chop, veal or chicken cutlet, or even a flank steak. Spoon the precooked duxelles down the center. Roll the meat and then sauté or roast it.

8 oz. finely chopped mushrooms
1 shallot, finely chopped
Butter as needed
Parsley, chopped to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the mushrooms and shallot in butter until the mushrooms are browned. Season with the parsley, salt and pepper.

SAUTEED PORTOBELLO CAPS WITH GRILLED ARTICHOKES

2 baby artichokes
2 small Portobello mushroom caps, stems and gills removed
Olive oil, as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

Cut the top quarter off the artichokes and remove all of the outer leaves. Peel the stem and cut it, leaving about an inch or so. Coat them with olive oil and then add salt and pepper. Grill them making quarter turns to sear each side. Sauté the mushroom caps in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place one artichoke on each of the three caps and drizzle with your favorite vinaigrette.